In 2019, the sport of climbing has reached a turning point. For many, it has become chic, transforming gyms from quaint training spaces into hip scenery for kombucha-swilling posers.
Bouldering is a free climbing discipline that involves scaling routes, or “boulder problems,” without the use of safety ropes. Athletes use both their physical strength and problem-solving skills to successfully scale a route in the limited time of the competition. Each Alta Boulders problem has a set of movable holds and climbers must choose which ones to use in order to overcome the challenge.
As a sport, bouldering is not without its risks and it requires a lot of muscle, mental dexterity and creativity to solve. Injuries are common, especially for those who are new to the sport or who don’t properly warm up. Finger ligaments, torn tendons, dislocated shoulders and broken ankles are all common injuries.
The sport has seen a rise in popularity since its introduction to the Olympics in 1998. The IFSC Climbing World Championships is held every two years and medals are awarded in three different disciplines: lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering. Traditionally, professional boulderers specialize in only one of the events; however, since 2017, a combined format has been used which allows athletes to score points from both the lead and the bouldering events.
Each competition begins with a brief observation period before competitors head into isolation, also known as iso, where they can only see the route that they are competing on. This prevents them from looking at the routes before they start to avoid gaining an advantage from seeing how hard or easy a problem might be. Once the competition starts, climbers are given eight minutes to watch other athletes attempt the problem before they begin their own. If they successfully complete the problem within the time allotted, they earn 100 points.
If they fail, the athlete gets a fraction of a point for each checkpoint they miss and five points if they reach the zone hold. If they don’t reach either of those, then they get no points.
The Cliffs gyms feature functional equipment that takes each climber’s unique needs into account. For example, they understand that climbers are at their best when they are at their healthiest weight and strongest, so they have combined cardio and functional training equipment. They have also taken inspiration from their clients’ love of the outdoors by integrating floor to ceiling windows into some locations.
What is Bouldering?
Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that does not require the use of ropes or harnesses. Instead, climbers focus on navigating short stretches of wall (or “boulders”) that are a few meters high or less, in a manner that requires strength, agility and problem-solving skill. Its popularity has grown as it redefines the art of climbing to be more than endurance and body control. The distilled challenges of bouldering routes draw devotees who seek a more focused test of power and movement mastery.
The sport of bouldering can be performed indoors or outdoors and involves no other equipment beyond climbing shoes, chalk and crash pads. It is most commonly done on artificial indoor climbing walls, though it also can be practiced in natural outdoor bouldering areas. Indoor bouldering walls allow athletes to climb in a controlled environment regardless of weather conditions outside and are often designed with dynamic route-setting that changes handhold challenges to keep climbing routes fresh. Outdoor bouldering areas are more variable, but can provide a variety of terrain with difficulty ranging from easy to eye-wateringly hard.
In the event of a fall, experienced climbers often act as spotters to assist in minimizing injury risk. Spotters are required to stand beneath the climber and be ready to catch them if they lose control, as falling onto a boulder can be painful. Bouldering competitions include a head-to-head matchup between two athletes, with the fastest climber advancing to the semifinals.
To prepare for a competitive bouldering match, athletes should train to improve their agility and balance. This can be accomplished by doing exercises such as push ups and planks to strengthen the core and abdominal muscles. Adding in finger strength training with hangboards and fingerboards can isolate specific grip areas, while incorporating campusing drills and 4x4s (climbing four boulder problems back-to-back without rest) helps build endurance. Athletes should be mindful of stretching routines to enhance range of motion and prevent injuries such as strained tendons or fingers, dislocated shoulders, and tennis elbow.
It’s also important to be aware of the risk of injury from improper warm up and over-exertion, as well as proper techniques when practicing a problem. Injuries can include bruised lungs and ankles, torn ligaments in the fingers, broken fingers, and dislocated shoulders. These can all be avoided with a well-planned warm-up, proper technique while climbing and proper recovery between sessions.
What is Competition Climbing?
Whether you’re watching your favorite pro climber during the Olympics or at your local climbing gym, there’s a lot to keep track of in competition climbing. From scoring to lingo, it’s easy to be confused—but we’re here to help! We’ve broken down the basics to get you (almost) ready for your next comp.
First, we need to explain the scoring system. In bouldering, each hold of a route corresponds to a number of points, and the climber who reaches the highest number of points wins. The first consideration is control, which refers to the ability to hold a position for at least a few seconds. This is especially important for the top, the last hold on a problem that must be held with both hands to count. The second consideration is power, or the amount of force you can exert on a hold. Power is important because it allows you to move your body up the wall and overcome the friction of the route.
The final consideration is speed, or how fast you can complete a problem. This is more of a race against the clock than the other two factors, and it’s the only part of the score that rewards purely arm strength. Climbers who rely more on their legs tend to have lower scores than those who rely mainly on their arms.
While these factors might seem arbitrary, they’re very important to understanding how the sport works. Once you’re familiar with the scoring system, you can better understand why certain climbers have a better chance of winning and how they might be able to improve their own performance.
As competition climbing grows in popularity, there’s more and more attention being paid to the way the sport is structured and organized. Some worry that it’s becoming too commercialized and focused on results, while others see this increased interest as a positive sign that climbing is gaining recognition as a legitimate sport.
Whatever side you’re on, one thing is for sure: Whether you’re cheering on your favorite pro at the Olympics or attempting to improve your own climbing, competitions can be a great motivator. And with the recent influx of climbing into the collegiate arena, many young people are being introduced to the sport for the first time—and that’s a good thing!
What is Bouldering Gyms?
Bouldering gyms are designed to accommodate climbers with a variety of experience levels, from novice to seasoned competitor. Most climbing gyms provide all the equipment needed to get started, including climbing shoes, harnesses and ropes. They may also offer a variety of classes, from introductory to more advanced, to help climbers hone their skills and learn about the safety and technical aspects of climbing.
Climbing is an exciting and challenging sport that requires patience, balance and physical strength. But it is also a very safe sport when practiced under the guidance of an experienced gym staff. In addition to floor managers who oversee the walls, many climbing gyms have certified instructors to teach proper technique, specialized route setters who change and place handholds, and belayers who manage ropes and ensure safe falls.
The climbing routes at most gyms are called “problems” or “routes” and are generally rated according to their difficulty. To complete a problem or route, the climber must follow the path that is marked on the wall. Often, these paths are distinguished by color and have some way of identifying the starting holds (the first holds you must use to start climbing).
Most modern bouldering gyms also feature a range of mats beneath the climbs where the climber can safely fall in the event of a mishap. This is especially important for beginners and young climbers who may not have developed the skills to fall in a controlled manner.
While climbing is an individual sport, it’s common to see climbers in the gym paired up to climb together or to belay each other. This is because a belayer is necessary to secure the climber in their harness, and a spotter is used to catch the climber should they fall off the wall. Having a partner to communicate with while climbing is essential to climber safety and to ensure everyone has a good time.